Listing /Cars ...
#612272 SIG HEADER: /Cars SIG-Op: Lazer Created: 14-AUG-95 16:53
SIG Topic: So! Does she go hard? :)
____________________________________________________________
/Cars
Welcome to /Cars!!
This sig is devoted to the motoring world. This includes things that
get you from one place to another, preferably with an engine. So, things
like cars, bikes, trucks, etc. Since there isn't any other /SIG for it,
boats and aircraft will be considered "on-topic".
Any message is welcome, as long as it's on topic. :)
Credits will be awarded to those messages which are
interesting/informative and the like. :)
Everyone has access to this sig, so write messages and have fun!! :)
If you write crap, your access will be cut to Read only. This means you
can reply to messages privately, but you won't be allowed to post
messages in the /SIG. Writing messages with really annoying ANSI will
have their ANSI access removed.
Oh, and mention anything about my stolen car and you will suffer. :)
Lazer
.../SIG-Op
_________________________________________________________________
Thoughts of the Day:
(Mikez:Messages): Hahahah! "As his piston thrusts deep into your
chamber, you open your valves and take the full force of his forged
steel conrod"
Public Msg #622941 *Cars* 21:39 04-SEP-95 *EXEMPT*
From: Mikez (Awarded 650 Credits)
To: ** ALL **
Subj: Buying a Car
Folks,
here's a little financial advice on buying a car (heavily based on
Jimx's previous message).
I am assuming you are under 25 and have little or no money. This
doesn't apply to kiddies whose parents buy them BMWs.
Basically, your first car should be very cheap and you should borrow
little or no money to buy it. Look around the $3000 to $4000 mark and
don't buy anything that is likely to be expensive to repair. Also,
remember that a $3000 Toyota Corolla is going to be in much better
condition than a $3000 Mercedes from the same year.
Don't be extravagant. You can enjoy the luxury of an expensive,
car later in life when it's more within your reach. If you buy wisely
now, you will be in better financial shape when you reach 25.
A car of this price is not going to be mechanically A1 so allow some
money for repairs through the year. If you do your own repairs, even
better. Remember, always get an opinion from a friend before going to a
mechanic. I've seen too many people walk into mechanics and been hit
with $500+ repair bills for things that were worth well under $100. A
mechanic always knows when you lack mechanical knowledge...if you are
ever silly enough to say "there's a strange noise under the bonnet" then
you'd better apply for a loan because they're going to hit you hard :)
If you say "one of the tappets is clicking can you adjust it for me"
they'll probably charge you $30. They are never game enough to rip off
someone who can verify their work.
A cheap car can be insured for a reasonable amount and it gives you a
few years to build up a 60% no claim bonus. Also, a standard car is
cheaper to insure than an old sports car and cheaper to repair.
Oh...and if you bank $60 per week for a year, you will have $3000. It's
really worth waiting that little extra just to build up some capital.
Loans aren't worth the effort unless you can pay them off quickly.
Remember, when you buy the car to allow for the insurance premium
(contact companies BEFORE you buy a car and find out roughly what it
will cost) and also note when the registration will be due. It doesn't
make too much difference when the rego is due because the seller will
usually adjust the price of the vehicle accordingly.
Also, if you are buying from a dealer, remember that there is NO
warranty on cars a certain age, mileage, or price. I don't know these
figures because they have recently changed. Check before you buy if
it's something you are worried about.
If you have any input or questions, please let me know.
Cheers,
MikeZ.
Public Msg #646784 *Cars* 19:40 22-OCT-95 *EXEMPT*
From: Mikez (2 Replies) (Awarded 500 Credits)
To: ** ALL **
Subj: Falcon/Fairmont Models
Guys,
here is a list of all the Ford Falcon/Fairmont models produced:
XK - September 1960 to August 1962
XL - August 1962 to February 1964
XM - February 1964 to March 1965
XP - March 1965 to September 1966
XR - September 1966 to March 1968
XT - March 1968 to June 1969
XW - June 1969 to November 1970
XY - November 1970 to March 1972
XA - March 1972 to November 1973
XB - November 1973 to August 1976
XC - August 1976 to March 1979
XD - March 1979 to March 1983
XE - March 1983 to October 1984
XF - October 1984 to March 1988
EA - March 1988 to July 1991
EB - July 1991 to August 1993
ED - August 1993 to September 1994
EF - September 1994 to October 1996
EL - October 1996 to September 1998
AU - September 1998 -->
MikeZ.
Public Msg #709365 *Cars* 08:49 23-FEB-96 *EXEMPT*
From: Ramazin (Awarded 600 Credits)
To: ** ALL **
Subj: A little piece I found in February's Car & Driver
Ten Things That Would Be Different if
Microsoft Started Building Cars:
1. A particular model year of car wouldn't be
available until after that year instead of
before it.
2. Every time they repainted the lines on the road,
you'd have to buy a new car.
3. Occasionally your car would just die for no
reason, and you'd have to restart it. For some
strange reason, you'd just accept this.
4. You could only have one person in your car at a
time, unless you bought a Car 95 or a Car NT.
But then you'd have to buy more seats.
5. Sun Motorsystems would make a car that was
powered by the sun, twice as reliable, and five
times as fast - but it would only run on 5
percent of roads.
6. The oil, engine, gas, and alternator warning
lights would be replaced with a single "General
Car Fault" warning light.
7. People would get excited about the "new"
features on Microsoft cars, forgetting
completely that they had been available in other
cars for years.
8. We'd all have to switch to Microsoft gas.
9. The U.S. government would be *getting* subsidies
from an automaker, instead of giving them.
10. New seats would force everyone to have the
same-size butt.
- Car and Driver
Public Msg #710131 *Cars* 01:47 25-FEB-96 *EXEMPT*
From: Immortal (1 Reply) (Awarded 600 Credits)
To: ** ALL **
Subj: One for the good guys.
I'm hoping to find either the gumby that drives a red Honda Integra (?)
or someone who knows the gumby that drives a red Honda Integra. It has a
god awful rear spoiler, crappy yellow sticker taking up at least half of
the front windscreen and licence plates, 'ALIEN'.
I'd like to pass on the following...
Bwahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahhahahahaha!!!!
You probably don't have a clue who I am, I'm the guy that,
a) was driving the red XW that you just couldn't control your
excess testosterone rush and had to overtake me on Paramatta
Rd.
b) was driving the red XW in which the sound of hysterical laughÿter
burst from as you were pulled over by that marked police car.
I was flattered that,
a) You felt the car in the lane beside me wasn't good enough to pull
behind at the lights, and on spotting my car, you instantly pulled
behind me.
b) You felt the uncontrollable desire to show me how gutless your
overpriced piece of 4 cylinder trash could accelerate.
c) I had the opportunity of listening to your rice burner rev at
least 1000 revs more than it wanted to.
d) I was priveledged enough to see and smell your exhaust fumes.
Unlike you, I was,
a) Smart enough not to drive like a maniac on Paramatta Rd at 11:30pm
on a Saturday night.
b) Had enough common sense not to take up a challenge from every rice
burner that's been sniffing too much 4 stroke.
c) Observant enough to see the cunningly hidden marked police car in
that side street.
My only regrets are,
a) I didn't see your face when the officer walked up to your drivers
side door and most likely told you that your licence will be
suspended.
b) I didn't thank the officers, seeing as they were nice enough to
pull up beside me and smile with a raised thumb in the air only a
minute before taking off again to chase you down.
c) Wankers like you aren't caught in this way more often.
However, what I find most amusing is the fact that if I really wanted to
race you, I would have totally shat on you. Really makes losing your
licence all that more worthwhile now, doesn't it!
Bwahaha!
Immortal
Public Msg #715641 *Cars* 21:11 07-MAR-96 *EXEMPT*
From: Mikez (7 Replies) (Awarded 400 Credits)
To: ** ALL **
Subj: Lube Mobile
NEVER EVER EVER use Lube Mobile.
They have no idea of mechanics whatsoever and I am seriously doubting
they are car mechanics at all....This is why:
A few years ago due to laziness, I decided to get Lube Mobile out for a
basic tune up (plugs, points, carby etc). They guy who came out had no
idea at all and I actually ended up doing the job while he watched!
The other day, there was a serious problem in my Dad's car and he called
me...He said he was going to call Lube Mobile because he couldn't move
the car to take it anywhere. I said "No!" but he had no choice. The
guy came out and due to the nature of the problem, Dad suggested that
there may be a problem with the timing chain (that rotates the
camshaft) only to get involved in a discussion with this git who was
insisting that "these cars don't have camshafts!". Can someone please
tell me any car that does not have a camshaft? Let alone a standard old
Ford! What a fuckwit! Don't waste your money!
If you want mechanical repairs done, ask your Grandmother before you ask
Lube Mobile.
MikeZ.
Public Msg #815633 *Cars* 17:35 11-OCT-96 *EXEMPT*
From: Dweeb (1 Reply) (Awarded 500 Credits)
To: ** ALL **
Subj: The Internet Burnout Page
Ever let out your clutch a little fast in reverse and create a
satisfying burning rubber odor? Or start spinning a little bit in the
rain/snow and keep it down just because it sounds neat? So do I!!!
Except I (and my friends, and maybe you!) like to hold it down a tab
long. Like long enough to make people wonder if your tires are on fire.
John Force may be the KING of all burnouts but I'll bet he drives like a
puss when he's not in a funny car. The drivers you are about to see are
NOT pusses.
And here are some of the pictures on offer, and all come with a short
passage to help you better understand the nature of the burnout! :)
- 1986 Mazda 626
The current champion! You ain't seen a FWD burnout 'till you've seen
this!!
- 1988 Buick Skylark
Tires? Tires? We don't need no steenkin' tires!
- 1993 Furd Tempo
Rental cars kick ass and stuff. Uh huh huh.
- 1980 Dodge Colt
Damn! The speedo says 55 but it seems like we're stationary...
- 1982 Mazda RX-7
Gee. I guess this would be the model WITHOUT limited slip.
- 1996 Chevrolet Corsica
Huhuhuuuh, rental car take 2.
- 1994 Acura Integra
I must say, I sympathize for whoever owns this car now.
- 1992 Ford Diesel Uhaul
Uhaul-ass.
- 1996 Ford Aspire
Rental car, take 3.
What's that? You've got spare rubber you want to introduce into the atmosphere?
You too can be cool and have your car listed here. Email me for more info.
You are wanker number ?¨?¨?¨ to visit as of March 31st, 1996.
And it's all here .. -> "http://uts.cc.utexas.edu/~mwilgus/burn.html" <-
Public Msg #878786 *Cars* 20:56 23-JAN-97 *EXEMPT*
From: Alt (3 Replies) (Awarded 500 Credits)
To: Zuid
Subj: Er.
Reply to #878543
> Could somebody please explain to me how rotary engines work?
The Wankel rotary engine is probably the most successful
alternative to the more widely used piston engine as a
power unit for cars, but the principle is cary similar.
ÿ
Instead of using the piston to draw air in and compress
the air/fuel mixture, it uses a triangular rotor,
operating inside a special chamber shaped like a flat
figure of eight, but described by the engineers as
epitrochoidal.
ÿ
The engine still undergoes the 4 phases of
- induction
- compression
- power
- exhaust
ÿ
like the 4 strokes of a conventional piston engine,
except that with the rotary, the seqence happens 3 times
for every complete revolution of the rotor. Because the
range of movement of the mechanical parts is so limited,
the engine is remarkably smooth and vibration-free.
------
From what I've heard, rotaries generate more power per volume of petrol
than piston engines, but they are also very bulky.
(The text was taken from some book I have here)
àÀ~âàÀ~â
àÀ~âÀ~â
àÀ~âàÀ~âàÀ~â
àÀ~âàÀ~â
àÀ~â
Public Msg #904687 *Cars* 20:25 25-MAR-97 *EXEMPT*
From: Mikez (2 Replies) (Awarded 300 Credits)
To: Jimx
Subj: glass.
Reply to #904223
> What's a good way to clean your windshield? I need both a good spray
> and a good cloth. A chamois leaves streaks because of the soap that's
> still soaked into it [I assume] and the glass cleaner I have now is
> really old [like, 8 years] so I assume it's just not functioning
> normally.
Windshields are a headache :( One thing you will notice, having a new
car, is a lot of "out gassing". This is a cloudy film building up on
the inside of the glass that is caused by fumes coming off all the
plastic used in the interior. If you park your car in the sun in Summer,
you will notice just how bad it is.
However, when washing your car these days, remember that the car wash
you are using probably has wax in it (Wash 'n Wax type stuff) and it
leaves a waxy finish on all the windows. The bottle usually recommends
that you don't get any on the windows. Nevertheless, I think good old
metho strips wax mercilessly so if you were to use a nice soft cloth and
metho, you should be able to clean them quite nicely. Don't put metho
on the wiper rubbers because it hardens the rubber and they don't work
too well.
MikeZ.
Public Msg #918049 *Cars* 21:54 29-APR-97 *EXEMPT*
From: Mikez (2 Replies) (Awarded 500 Credits)
To: Jimx
Subj: Exhaust.
Reply to #917950, Reply to #917947,*
> How this little thing seems capable of holding a seemingly unlimited
> amount of impurities I don't know. Perhaps it doesn't capture the
> impurities, but holds them for awhile longer so that they can burn
> more effectively. Yeah, that seems more likely.
I used to know exactly how they worked, but I'll try and remember as
I go. The principle will be right, just the gases may be back to
front :)
Ok, a normal leaded car produces two main toxic/greenhouse gases -
Nitrous Oxide (NO2) and Carbon Monoxide (CO). Let's assume, for this
discussion that it produces a 50% of each.
Now, an unleaded car shifts the gas concentration in one direction, and
produces more of one gas and less of the other...Let's say an unleaded
car produces 80% NO2 and 20% CO (I may have these back to front but I
think that's right). As you can see, the problem is hardly solved
because you're still producing the same amount of bad gasses, however,
this is where the Catalytic Converter (herein referred to as CAT) comes
into it. This is basically a muffler, with a honeycomb framework in it,
that is designed to run at very high temperatures (hence quite close to
the manifold). It is lined with platinum (hence the expense). Now,
with the platinum acting as a catalyst (it doesn't react with the gas) +
the extreme heat, a reaction takes place that converts the NO2 into
something else (this is where I start to lose it) less harmful. And
that's how it works...
So now you still have 20% CO2 and probably 20% NO2...significant
reduction. A drawback is that lead in fuel was quite good at
lubricating things such as valve stems etc (lead is like graphite).
Unleaded engines aren't as durable as leaded ones.
Also, lead itself is toxic so removing that from the atmosphere is also
beneficial. Never thought I'd say it, but I think unleaded fuel is
quite good. You may want to check the latest invention being used only
in California at the moment (first place to use unleaded fuel too).
It's called "Reconsituted Gasoline" and you can read about it searching
on the Net. Please copy anything interesting to here if you can.
The reason that putting leaded fuel in an unleaded car stuff things up
is because the lead ends up lining the CAT rather than platinum, hence
rendering it useless.
MikeZ.
ps. Thinking about it, it probably converts NO2 to NO3 or something.
Public Msg #952754 *Cars* 15:29 01-AUG-97 *EXEMPT*
From: Agg (2 Replies) (Awarded 666 Credits)
To: Legend
Subj: MORE on fines and neg driving
Reply to #952634, Reply to #952507,*
> try reasoning with a coppa one day an lemme no how you fair!
[pauses to parse]
Ahh. Actually, I've had quite a good run of luck with reasoning with
cops. I have never been booked for anything more serious than not
displaying my L plate despite:
- being pulled over for speeding in Oz 4 times
- being pulled over in for doing 184km/h in a 100 zone in NZ
[and, my crowning acheivement]
- crashing my motorcycle into the back of a police car
[bow] I honestly don't know why I haven't been booked [at the very
least, neg driving for the last one - the bike was written off]. Maybe
I'm due for a really big one. I almost got caught getting airborne past
some cops in Marrickville last week. :)
Agg
Public Msg #957476 *Cars* 10:41 17-AUG-97 *EXEMPT*
From: Crimson (3 Replies) (Awarded 1000 Credits)
To: ** ALL **
Subj: hmm
Letter printed in latest FF&R magazine-
To Mr Peter Debnam,
I would like to express my opinion over your "Traffic Amendment Bill
1996".
I own a "hotted-up" Mazda R100, in which i have great pride because i
have built it up from scratch. Under your classification it is a "hoons"
car. On March 3, 1997, i was pulled up for no apparent reason by a
police officer. I pulled out my engineering papers I have for the
vehicle's modifications. Very rudely and arrogantly the police officer
accsued me of doing burnouts on Bondi Rd. Both myself and my female
companion insisted i did not do such a thing, but we were treated like
dogs. While writing the fine he told me that my car would be
confiscated. At that point the police officer received a radio call in
which he had to go in an instant. He looked at me and said "You're
fucking lucky tonight. Dont let me see you here again or i'll fucking
take your car. Go and do something useful for yourself". What do you
think of that Mr Debnam. I was classed as a hoon, one with no life or
future, just a kid making trouble. Let me tell you those hoons are
mostly young men who have a passion for cars, enjoying themselves with
their pride and joy. Most of their wages goes into that "dangerous
vehicle" because they want to feel satisfaction in something that is
theirs. .......
And the letter goes on. I dont know how many of you people drive "hoons"
cars, but have you noticed since this bill was passed, cops are a lot
more eager to "check your car out". Remember the next time your house
gets robbed, or someone gets murdered, that the cops that take 2 hours
to arrive at the scene of the crime are the same ones spending all night
*trying* to defect cars with their ADR book and their peabrain knowledge
of anything mechanical. I was once stopped *three* times in one night in
my Fiat, because of the noisy exhaust. I was told three times that
"You're lucky; that exhaust isnt standard and is illegal, but im going
to give you a chance to change it. Let it be a lesson...". What a pile
of shite! I was stopped by a Castle Hill cop last thursday night,
accusing me of doing burnouts in the shopping car park in my Exa. With
no proof or worthwhile evidence, i was told to leave the area, and my
number plates would be recorded with the cops so as to keep an eye out
for me. Can you believe this? I havent done a proper burnout since i was
in school! Am i the only one being harassed on the street because i
drive nice a car(s) ?
crimson
Public Msg #970784 *Cars* 08:14 03-OCT-97 *EXEMPT*
From: Alt (1 Reply) (Awarded 669 Credits)
To: ** ALL **
Subj: heh heh
A couple of ways to fuck up your driving test
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Assure the instructor there will be no incident like that whole open
bridge thing that happened last week.
Continuously look behind you, occasionally speeding up saying,
"They're following us."
Before you set of just clarify RED = stop, GREEN = go
Sit in the driver's seat and tell the instructor to follow that cab.
Drive around picking up people for fares.
Lock all the doors using central locking and then say, "Ah-ha! I've got
you now!"
Ask the instructor every 5 seconds, "Are we there yet?"
Drive like a maniac and wait until the instructor goes to grab the
wheel, then lick it continuously and say, "m
s.
Ask: "If it was another time and another place do you think we could
be lovers?"
Glare at the instructor and say, "This car ain't big enogh for the
both of us.
Explain how the first murder is the hardest.
Gnaw on your forearm. When the instructor notices say, "Oh, I'm sorry.
Would you like some?"
Tell the instructor that you haven't blacked out in days.
Randomly slap your head screaming, "No! I don't want to! The
instructor _IS_ a nice person."
Buckle up, say "go!" a couple of times, then get out and open the hood
to examine the engine.
Bring a spare pair of underpants and hand them to the instructor. Tell
them, "My last instructor needed them."
Public Msg #982098 *Cars* 21:12 08-NOV-97 *EXEMPT*
From: Alt (Awarded 1000 Credits)
To: Mikez
Subj: M5
Reply to #982013, Reply to #981833,*
¯ What's VANOS?
It's BMW's Motorsport department being knob-ends. Instead of calling it
some obvious permutation of Variable Valve Control, they have to give it
a more catchy name.
Would you like a detailed description of what it does exactly?
This is taken from a web page on the M3 by a BMW showroom in Ottawa.
¯ VANOS is a combined hydraulic and mechanical camshaft control
¯ device managed by the car's DME engine management system. It
¯ operates on the inlet camshaft in accordance with engine speed and
¯ accelerator pedal position. At the lower end of the engine-speed
¯ scale, the inlet valves are opened later, which improves idling
¯ quality and smoothness. At moderate engine speeds, the inlet
¯ valves open much earlier, which boosts torque and permits exhaust
¯ gas recirculation inside the combustion chambers, so that fuel
¯ consumption and exhaust emissions are both reduced. Finally, at
¯ high engine speeds, inlet valve opening is once again delayed, so
¯ that full power can be developed.
¯
So, basically, it makes the car "breathe" better at idle and higher
revs, to increase fuel consumption. At the middle of the rev range
(where you're accelerating) it makes the engine perform like a car with
less cams/valves, thereby increasing torque.
(If you've noticed, cars with lower cams/valves seem to have more torque
lower in the rev range, which is nice)
With the good air circulation, it allows the Motorsport plant to achieve
the 100hp/Litre maxim.
As a side note, Rover and Honda alse use variable valve control. It
explains, for Honda, why the NSX goes so hard.
They probably engineered the M5 to run at a lower power output (note it
doesn't achieve the 100hp/L) It is based upon the 540i chassis, which
have these stats (for performance)
¯ 540i Sedan
¯ Engine
¯ Cylinders/valves 8-32v
¯ Capacity (cc) 4398
¯ Power kW/bhp/rpm 210/287/5700
¯ Torque Nm/rpm 420/3900
¯ Acceleration 0-100km/h (sec) 6.7
¯ Maximum speed (km/h) 250
If you want to know anything about any of the BMW's, I recommend the BMW
Australia home page. Quite originally, the URL is
"Http://www.bmw.com.au/"
If you want to check the content of the BMW M3 (as in the engine
management system, VANOS, etc) I got my information from
"http://www.bmwottawa.com/97-m3.html"
Enjoy.
o=ßo
oo°±
²ÿo=ßoÿo=ßoÿ
*=ßoÿßoÿ
oÿ°°°°±±±±²²²²±±±±
°°°°àÀ~â
If you want more inches, stroke it ;-)
///´lt
:)
(I think that's how Motorsport sets out the colours for the insigna)
Public Msg #1038765 *Cars* 15:35 20-JAN-98 *EXEMPT*
From: Pyscho (3 Replies) (Awarded 500 Credits)
To: ** ALL **
Subj: (:
Don't forget to check the level of water in your radiator occassionally.
Pys!(:
Public Msg #1104812 *Cars* 11:46 27-AUG-98 *EXEMPT*
From: Crimson (3 Replies) (Awarded 1500 Credits)
To: ** ALL **
Subj: Chump of the Year
Hi,
I've just found out why it doesn't pay to be a dickhead on the road.
This morning at 10:25am coming home from a friend's house I briefly
opened up the throttle on a deserted road which happens to be a 70km/h
zone. (Unfortunately) It does't take long for my car to get over 100
clicks, and as soon as I rounded a bend and backed off, I cop car with a
radar got me.
The price for this? $690 and a 3 month driving suspension. So the next
time one of you guys gets a rush of blood on an open road, forget it;
chances are you'll get nailed.
The cop wasn't very clear in explaining things to me (I probably
wouldn't after pulling over a clown doing 124km/h); what I wanted to
know is, do I just get my license back with a few points, or do I have
to re-apply and shit? I've only ever had 2 minor infringements as far as
these things are concerned; so I have no idea.
Going hard when you think it's ok isn't worth it fellas; well, it's not
worth losing your license over, anyway.
Crimson.
Public Msg #1108497 *Cars* 17:58 13-SEP-98 *EXEMPT*
From: Sonic (1 Reply) (Awarded 69 Credits)
To: ** ALL **
Subj: Hot 4's & Performance Cars
In a magazine i was reading, one of the readers sent a letter in asking
for advice about what he should do to his car -:
Dear Sir,
I own a 1978 Corona and i want it extremely wild and unique. I was
thinking of fitting either a twin turbo WRX motor or an RX7 series 7
motor. I have 18months experience in mechanics so i know my Corona is a
4WD like the WRX. I was also thinking of changing the gearbox. Which is
cheaper, a Supra 5-speed or a Holinger 6-speed? I am also changing the
diff to a Ford 10inch. Would this be legal and who can do this work in
Birrong? Also i have heard rumours of an RS2000 Corona, are these still
available as i want the hottest Corona on Earth! You advice will be
greatly appreciated.
Mohammmeed "the kebab" Derbas
Birrong, Nsw
And the reply from the guy giving advice -:
No comment.
SoniC
Public Msg #1116373 *Cars* 16:35 16-OCT-98 *EXEMPT*
From: Alt
To: ** ALL **
Subj: Things that shit me off!
"Baby On Board" Signs
Who cares? Unless the baby is actually driving the car, I can't see
the point in telling the world that you have a kid. That's your
problem. What are you advertising anyway? The fact that you had sex,
or the fact that you're not shooting blanks? Either way,
congratulations. Now fuoff with the sign.
Bicycle Couriers
These arseholes are a hazard whether you're in a car or on foot.
Apart from being a menace, they get away with murder that you'd be
hung for if you tried it in a car. They can run red lights, use
footpaths, and never fucking indicate. Their vehicles are
unregistered and they don't have anywhere near the running costs
motorists do. They pay no attention to traffic signals because
they're not "motorists", but if you clean one up as they run a stop
sign, one guess who'll be in the wrong?
50km/hr Signs
The fact that some runt in baggy shorts with his cap on backwards
can go faster than 50 on a skateboard doesn't seem to enter into the
equation, but creep over this ridiculously low mark in the family
car and you'll get punched in the wallet to the tune of at least $110
and a point off your license.
Public Holidays
Double demerit points and an extra point for all traffic
infringements. Why? Because jaded parents who rarely drive hit the
highways in cars full of brats and make the roads unsafe for the
rest of us. Not to mention the traffic.
Public Msg #1116374 *Cars* 16:36 16-OCT-98 *EXEMPT*
From: Alt
To: ** ALL **
Subj: Things that Shit me off (2)
People who can't distinguish right from left
Hi Mills!
Keep left signs are there to help with the flow of traffic, yet one
in four motorists (usually the slowest ones) like the look of these
uncongested lanes on the right and just slip on out there -
congesting them. This is against the law, of course, but when was
the last time you saw some slow shit-for-brains getting booked
for it?
Hesitators and Nervous Drivers
Those shy types who sit at "Stop" and "Give Way" signs waiting for a
break in traffic big enough to get a land train through. If they
can't judge the speed of an oncoming car, and their own car's
acceleration, enough to enter at suitable times, they shouldn't be
allowed on behind the wheel.
The Lost
Yep, those people who suddely slow down because they think they've
gone past the street or address they were after, or only decide when
they're on a busy street to consult a map to see where it is exactly
they have to go. Watch as they slow down and crane their necks out
the window trying to catch a glimpse of a street name or a house
number. Tough shit, let them go around the block and try again
when there aren't people who KNEW BEFOREHAND where they were going
backed up behind them.
Quick Shoppers
Car in front stops suddenly, hazard lights go on, and the driver or
passenger jumps out of the car and races into the corner shop for a
loaf of bread or a packet of ciggies. Always during peak hour, and
usually next to double lines so that if you try and pull out to
overtake them you get booked.
Public Msg #1116376 *Cars* 16:36 16-OCT-98 *EXEMPT*
From: Alt
To: ** ALL **
Subj: Things that Shit me off (3)
Speed Humps
You lowered your car, and put on stiffer springs, so the car would
handle better and you'd be less likely to have an accident. Then you
try to cross one of these "safety humps", and you have to slow down
to such low speeds that the person behind you might hit you, and you
can hear all that damage being done to your undercarriage. Even if
your car's ride height is enough to cross them at double digit
speeds, think of all the needless wear on your suspension and shock
absorbers?
The Elderly
Have you noticed the people that drive old Toyota Crowns, Cressidas,
Corollas, or Volvos seem to be in the same age demographic? I've
lost count of the time that some Crown with a mauve-haired pilot has
kept me pinned down in a single lane street at a frustrating 30km/hr,
not being able to keep to the one lane, and sitting so far forward
in a car that's obviously automatic that they'd need the Jaws of
Life to get out of the car after every trip? People who are always
dressed in lawn-bowling clothes, and whose glasses would stop
radiation, but somehow seem to always get their licenses renewed?
(One elderly driver was failed for being too hesitant, and there was
a major uproar afterwards, with the RTA boss backing the fogey
instead of the law.)
Public Msg #1116377 *Cars* 16:37 16-OCT-98 *EXEMPT*
From: Alt
To: ** ALL **
Subj: Things that Shit me off (4)
Asian Drivers
Walking past these parked cars, and its like one of those vending
machines outside of Woolworths. The dashboard is adorned with all
these "cute" toys on springs, there has to be the traditional red
scroll hanging from the rear view mirror, and the parcel tray that
is covered with doileys or cushions. Not to mention the body kits on
the cars, which have to be the most aggressive around, but under the
bonnet that Excel with the shopping trolley rear spoiler (which
would probably generate a great deal of downforce) which still goes
like a shopping trolley. When they're actually driving it, simple
things like driving within 10% of the speed limit, indicating, and
staying in one lane seems to be so far down the list of priorities
in comparison to impressing friends with the fact some mentally
handicapped civil servant gave the fuckwit a license in the
first place. Every time I pull behind a Golf CL in the left lane which
is doing 40km/hr with a license plate that has "3" and "8" on it, I
know that:
1) There's an Asian driving it,
2) Its a female,
3) I'd better pass her quickly before she suddenly remembers she
needs to be in my lane and doesn't check her blind spot.
"Doof" Machines
As a person who really enjoys listening to music, I think its great
that people install expensive car stereos. But please, I don't want
to listen to your music (or more likely the bass from it). The fact
that you listen to hip-hop or R&B is your choice, but don't inflict
your music on me. Instead of buying a stereo that can be heard for
blocks but where the fidelity is about as good as a portable radio
you'd buy at a supermarket, why not buy a stereo that has a decent
quality, or buy a car that will pass rego the next time it comes up.
Public Msg #1116380 *Cars* 16:38 16-OCT-98 *EXEMPT*
From: Alt (1 Reply)
To: ** ALL **
Subj: Things that Shit me off (last)
Road Rage Laws
Amazingly, you can go to jail these days for verbalising your
displeasure at other motorists, while driving at 89km/hr in
residential areas probably won't see a court hearing. (79km/hr in
those fucked-up 50 zones). That's right, just saying a few
choice words to some shmiteater who's stopped to buy bread, get
out of your car to feel a bicycle courier miss you by millimetres,
or lean on a horn every time you see an elderly driver driving at
40km/hr with no cars for kilometres in front, and you're gone. Yep,
you can be found guiltu of road rage and spend up to five years in a
cell with some big bloke called "Choppa" playing mummies and
daddies.
=-=-=-=-=-=
Once again, feel free to comment on personal experiences, or other
things that tick you off on the road.
Alt
Public Msg #1118322 *Cars* 12:18 26-OCT-98 *EXEMPT*
From: Alt
To: ** ALL **
FILE: abs.txt
Here's an article on ABS, from the SMH.
I feel that anyone who drives with ABS should read this, or even
without. It is interesting.
Public Msg #1119472 *Cars* 14:48 30-OCT-98 *EXEMPT*
From: Alt (1 Reply)
To: ** ALL **
FILE: Blowoff.txt
Before you get any dirty connotations, the attached text file is on how
a blow-off valve works.
(Mostly for those of you who have little experience with turbos, since
NA cars don't need it and turbo cars shouldn't be without one.)
From the "MRT Performance" web site.
Public Msg #1119473 *Cars* 14:51 30-OCT-98 *EXEMPT*
From: Alt
To: ** ALL **
FILE: intrcool.txt
How an intercooler works. Once again, this is primarily for turbo cars,
but given its semantics I think NA cars could, in some cases,
effectively use an intercooler. I know the SSS' engine bay heats up very
quickly and gets very hot, and the induction scoop doesn't have access
to a grille. (as in direct access0
Once again, this is from the MRT page.
Public Msg #1119476 *Cars* 14:53 30-OCT-98 *EXEMPT*
From: Alt
To: ** ALL **
FILE: Wheelali.txt
This file explains toe, camber, and castor.
Adjusting these things helps handling, as its how the wheel/tyre is set
on the car.
Public Msg #1120702 *Cars* 16:40 04-NOV-98 *EXEMPT*
From: Mabster (Awarded 2000 Credits)
To: Alt
FILE: blowoff.txt
Here it is. Modify this message as you see fit to describe what the
file is. :) :)
Bastard sheep.
Public Msg #1121338 *Cars* 14:03 07-NOV-98 *EXEMPT*
From: Alt
To: ** ALL **
FILE: wrxhandl.txt
The article I was talking about.
I still haven't read it fully yet.
[shrug]
If I get bored (and less messages) I'll quote the interesting bits.
Thanks to MRT Performance's web site.
Public Msg #1124919 *Cars* 10:17 20-NOV-98 *EXEMPT*
From: Vead (1 Reply) (Awarded 200 Credits)
To: ** ALL **
Subj: Want a real Nissan?
When a GTR is available for import It get's given a rating out of five,
and yes it's is usually 4 or 5. who'd import a shitty car :)
When it get's here, it lands in VIC or QLD, since NSW doesn't have any
compliance holders. Which they must go though to make sure that they
meet ADR <australian design rules>.
These changes generally are.
a) Tyres
Many japanese drivers choose to drive on slicks, which are not
allowed on roads
b) Exhaust
It's is checked to see that it meets emmision startdards, the
factory fitted one is to ADR, but who keeps it standard.
c) Seatbelts
They are replaced and child restraints fitted, including all
bolts.
d) Glass
Checked for compliance, intrusion bars may also be fitted.
Once this is done, it'll get a green plate.
Normal imports get black, privates get yellow.
Anyone wanna take me on?
Public Msg #1125923 *Cars* 17:28 23-NOV-98 *EXEMPT*
From: Alt
To: ** ALL **
FILE: rampod.txt
Explains how a ram pod air filter works.
This is an ad, so it'll plug Uni Filter in particular, but I assume the
facts it pushes forwards on how ram pods work is still valid.
I got this from the MRT page.
So all credits to them and Uni Filter.
Alt
///SIG-Op /Cars
Public Msg #1126056 *Cars* 21:29 23-NOV-98 *EXEMPT*
From: Alt
To: ** ALL **
FILE: various.txt
This is from the Gran Turismo compendium, found on the Playstation
Magazine website.
http://www.psx.ign.com/ if I remember correctly.
you can find the redirector at http://www.psmonline.com/
Anyway, its basically explains how to play Gran Turismo to its fullest
potential.
The reason I'm posting (and exempting) this is because of the level of
realism the game has, and hence how useful the ideas contained are.
I've read a couple of articles on advanced driver techniques, and most
are faithfully reproduced in this game/compendium. There's also a list
of car modifications, and from the after-market places I've visited/read
stuff from, the descriptions and explainations here are true.
I've deleted the irrelevant stuff (like how to pass the GT license
tests, and how to race the races in there) but I've kept as much useful
information as I could find.
As for the data on the various makes/models of car, I'm pretty sure the
descriptions are correct. I checked a couple of cars whose stats I am
familiar with, and they're spot on.
If you haven't played Gran Turismo yet, you haven't played the finest
motor car driving sim ever made.
:)
(As an aside, a lot of the stuff is reflected on how it affects
game-play, so it ignores other stuff like fuel economy, insurance, and
legalities of doing it to a road car.)
Alt
///SIG-Op /Cars
ÿ
"The best way to see life is out of the driver's side window"
Public Msg #1133800 *Cars* 23:17 24-DEC-98 *EXEMPT*
From: Mouse (Awarded 2000 Credits)
To: Alt
Subj: Turbos
Reply to #1129411
> Can someone please post up the mechanics of a turbocharger (and
> supercharger if you want) please?
Turbocharging increases volumetric efficiency of the engine. Naturally
aspirated engines (without turbocharging) have a volumetric efficiency
of about 85%. This is due to the resistance of flow in the intake system
and the effects of residual gasses in the cylinders. Turbocharged
engines can have a volumetric efficiency of over 100%. Turbochargers
operate on waste exhaust gas. About 30% of the toal heat produced in an
engine is normally lost through the exhaust, but some of this can be
utilised when a turbocharger is fitted. Turbochargers are more suitable
for smaller engines because they do not directly use engine power.
A turbocharger is an exhaust-driven supercharger that makes use of the
waste energy in the exhaust gas. This energy is used to drive the
turbocharger, which then forces additional air or air-fuel mixture
into the cylinders of the engine. Exhaust gases are carried from the
exhaust manifold into the turbine, which is rotated at a high speed by
the force of the gas. The compressor is also driven at a high speed
through a common shaft. Air entering the compressor is then forced
through ducting to the intake manifold. In some instances, an
intercooler is fitted. This is used to remove heat from the compressed
air before it enters the engine.
This is a basic description off the top of my head. I don't have any
figures for you, but I'm sure you can figure it out. ;-)
Mouse.
Public Msg #1136949 *Cars* 18:45 07-JAN-99 *EXEMPT*
From: Alt
To: Rex
FILE: ecu.txt
Here's the FAQ from the Powerchip site that tells you what a new Engine
Control Unit (ECU, aka DME for Digital Motor Electronics [in Europe])
works.
I forgot to check the page for your car, I'll bring it up later.
Anyway, in a nutshell it's an engine computer with a new set of
instructions for driving your car.
Public Msg #1136950 *Cars* 18:47 07-JAN-99 *EXEMPT*
From: Alt (1 Reply)
To: Kicker
FILE: edu-240.txt
Here's the page from the Powerchip site on rechipping the old Volvo 240
2.3 L engine. :)
Public Msg #1136951 *Cars* 18:48 07-JAN-99 *EXEMPT*
From: Alt (1 Reply)
To: Nickz
FILE: ecu-ef.txt
Here's the powerchip page for the EL Falcon.
I can't remember which model Falcon you drive (since Fords suck) but I
think this was it.
If I'm wrong, tell someone who cares. :)
Public Msg #1136952 *Cars* 18:50 07-JAN-99 *EXEMPT*
From: Alt
To: Greedy
FILE: ecu-f355.txt
Here's the chip page for the new engine computer for the F355.
I posted this one to show that even performance cars don't have their
chips calibrated for maximum power.
Most of the chips I've grabbed were for a purpose.
Public Msg #1136953 *Cars* 18:52 07-JAN-99 *EXEMPT*
From: Alt
To: ** ALL **
FILE: ecu-m3.txt
This car has a I/O port (which most of the higher-end BMW's now have).
It's called a diagnostic information port, so you can just plug a
computer with the new instructions in and go for it.
I can't believe that this car, "NRMA's Best sports car over $55,000" can
be rechipped. You'd expect BMW to not be as concerned about fuel
consumption in their top-of-the-line sports coupe.
Public Msg #1136956 *Cars* 19:20 07-JAN-99 *EXEMPT*
From: Alt
To: Lefty
FILE: ecu-s40.txt
Here's the new ECU for the Volvo S40 T4 (which is a 1.9L Turbo for all
those that didn't know)
The car, stock, keeps up with HSV's.
Sucked in to all those Holden people. A volvo has the same acceleration.
A÷áŸ'.ÿõÿs you'll see, the new ECU can also control boost pressure of
the turbo to provide more power.
Public Msg #1136957 *Cars* 19:21 07-JAN-99 *EXEMPT*
From: Alt
To: Alt
FILE: ecu-sss.txt
Hi, this is the ECU for the Pulsar SSS.
<nod>
Public Msg #1141871 *Cars* 11:48 21-JAN-99 *EXEMPT*
From: Memnoch (1 Reply)
To: ** ALL **
FILE: shocks.txt
Here's a file I borrowed from the Pedders Australia site.
It's (obviously) on shock absorbers, and how they work (etc)
The formatting might be a little fucked, they set it out in HTML and I
pasted it into Notepad.
Alt
///SIG-Op /Cars
ÿ
"The best way to see life is out of the driver's side window"
Public Msg #1145114 *Cars* 13:09 01-FEB-99 *EXEMPT*
From: Vead (Awarded 1000 Credits)
To: ** ALL **
FILE: VOLVO_T5.XLS
If you ask POWERCHIP for more information they give it to you :)
This is what they sent on the cars which have the T5 engine.
A Text email, with a really cool Excel attachment, with full stats and
graphs.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
DATA SHEET FOR Volvo C70,S70 T-5,V70 T-5 2.3 Turbo
>From Mar-97
POWERCHIP, as the leading performance chip company in Australia is
able to offer enhanced performance for your car.
In standard form, the Volvo C70,S70 T-5,V70 T-5 2.3 Turbo produces
176 Kw, however the addition of a Powerchip will increase the power
to 206 Kw. In addition to the extra power, the torque is also
increased. The C70,S70 T-5,V70 T-5 2.3 Turbo produces 330 Nm
standard, and this is increased to 386 Nm. This means more pulling
power especially up hills.
Standard Powerchip Gain
Power 176kW 206kW 30kW 17%
Torque 330Nm 386Nm 56Nm 17%
PERFORMANCE SUMMARY
The increase in Power & Torque results in a reduction in
acceleration times.
Standard(sec) Powerchip(sec) Difference(sec)
Acceleration 0-100km/h 7.0 6.3 -0.7
HOW POWERCHIP WORKS
Higher boost pressure. The car runs higher boost pressure.
This is done electronically by the Powerchip.
Modified fuelling. The increase in fuelling means that higher boost
pressure can be used. The fuelling change makes the mixture richer
when required.
Modified Timing. The POWERCHIP advances the timing in the low end of
the rev range to give you a crisper throttle response. The timing is
retarded under load in the higher end of the rev range to ensure
there is no detonation or pinging due to the increase in boost
pressure. This ensures that the car is running at optimum tune, at
high engine revolutions right down to idle speed.
MANUFACTURERS TOLERANCES
Volvo detunes the car to allow for the drivers that do not service
their cars regularly, or are non enthusiasts. A POWERCHIP does not
need to be programmed as conservatively, as a new vehicle
manufacturer needs to allow for the small percentage of owners who
put the cars reliability to the test due to their lack of knowledge.
FITTING
The C70,S70 T-5,V70 T-5 2.3 Turbo uses a Surface Mount Chip and
fitting takes about 1-2 hours. Fitting is free in Melbourne, however
there is an additional fitting charge of about $100 for interstate
installations Interstate customers willing to remove anr
cars computer to us will not pay any installation or delivery
charges. We use TNT express overnight couriers for pickup and
delivery to ensure the minimum possible turnaround time of 1 working
days.
WARRANTY
The POWERCHIP comes with a twelve-month guarantee. This is an
assurance of a quality product. This is provided in writing with
every Powerchip ordered.
COST
The cost of the POWERCHIP for your Volvo is $990. An invoice is
included that specifies
e POWERCHAll POWERCHIP’s are offered with a 12-month warranty, and
an oeque or credit card.
DaveVde
aad
Public Msg #1156082 *Cars* 15:36 10-MAR-99 *EXEMPT*
From: Memnoch (Awarded 750 Credits)
To: ** ALL **
FILE: turbo.txt
I tried uploading this before, but I dropped out.
Here's an article I found on the 'net about turbos. It's more in-depth
than the usual "exhaust-turbine-compressor" explanation usually given.
There were some comments/questions I had, but I think I'll leave it
until I get more time.
Memnoch
Public Msg #1186817 *Cars* 01:14 25-JUL-99 *EXEMPT*
From: Memnoch (Awarded 1000 Credits)
To: Lazer
FILE: rtamods.pdf
Reply to #1186621, Reply to #118661*
> -> the RTA have web-sites on this sort of thing.
>
> They do? do you know them? :)
I just qscanned /cars and I stupidly forgot to exempt the file regarding
modifications.
Here it is again. You'll need Acrobat to view it.
Public Msg #1193814 *Cars* 12:55 29-AUG-99 *EXEMPT*
From: Mikez (2 Replies) (Awarded 5000 Credits)
To: Eternity
Subj: Ping
Reply to #1193719
> I was told a bit about "ping" today.
> Interesting stuff.
> How can Ping be corrected/fixed/eliminated ?
Well firstly, pinging is quite bad for an engine so I suggest you
figure out what's doing it and fix it. Several things can cause
pinging:
* High compression engines using low octane fuel
This is probably not the cause in your case. The Datsun engines
are around 8.2 to 1 compression (which is very low).
* Engine "coking"
If a car has been driven slowly through the years or has been
idling a lot (like those people who let their cars warm up before
taking off) carbon builds up in the combustion chamber raising the
compression ratio of the car and hence causing ping for the reason
described in the previous point. If you notice your car keeps
running on for a while after you switch off the ignition, it could
be coked (other things cause this symptom as well though so it's not
definitive proof of coking).
* Over-advanced ignition timing
Datsuns are prone to this. It is possible that the springs that
hold the distrubutor counter-weights have weakened through the
years and it's advancing too easily. However, more than likely
the initial advance is set too high.
* Driving in the wrong gear :)
Basically, if you try to accelerate hard from a low speed
in top gear, any car will ping. In some cases, it even becomes
"knock" (a severe form of very destructive ping). You will
notice cars sometimes taking off at lights that start to knock
Usually because the tosser driving it is in the wrong gear and
tries to take off.
* Lean air/fuel mixture
A possibility. If it's lean enough to ping, you will probably
also be getting a "coughing" from the carburettor at times.
Similar to a backfire but from under the bonnet.
* Wrong Heat Range Spark Plugs
This is probably not likely unless someone has stuffed up. I
find Datsuns run quit a bit nicer on NGK plugs rather than
Champion (and they run crap on Bosch plugs). I think the
ones for your Datsun are BP6ES.
* Over heating
If the engine has over-heated it will also ping easier.
If you are curious, I can explain what the actual ping/knock is.
If you are driving correctly I'd be betting that it's the advanced
timing causing your pinging. You can fix it very easily.
If you're not scared to take a spanner to your car, I'll explain
it in a message for you :)
Mike.
Public Msg #1215041 *Cars* 22:00 13-JAN-00 *EXEMPT*
From: Slashr (Awarded 2000 Credits)
To: Mikez
Subj: Car Audio
Reply to #1214227
> So, having said that what is a good brand or combination or something I
> should consider buying? I believe you can get really good sounds for
> under $1000 and anything more than that is just for volume/wank.
Mike,
I've been interested in car audio for a couple of years, and have
numerous friends who are also into it - all of whom generally have a
good ear and don't like distortion. I've experimented lots with my car,
and am always keen to listen to other peoples experiments (like Zuid's).
I work at Jaycar Parramatta, so deal with car audio enthusiasts all the
time - all of whom have different requirements. As you know I'm also in
the third year of an electrical engineering degree.
The most important thing that I would recommend for a very clean,
distortion free sound is a separate amplifier for your speakers.
It's important to have plenty of power available for any peaks in your
music - especially if you are listening to something very dynamic.
Amplifiers built into headunits are never adequate. They are almost
always over-rated (most 40W head units are only capable of putting out
around 12W), and generally just don't stack up in technical tests in the
magazines.
Your choice of headunit and cd stacker is just a matter of checking out
what is available in stores, and checking reviews in magazines such as
Car Stereo Australia. You wont need anything with high powered outputs,
since you will be using an amplifier anyway. However you should make
sure that it has RCA outputs for the amp - preferably separate ones for
front and rear - provided that you want the ability to fade between
them.
Don't be fooled by stackers with a long memory. If a stacker has 60
second memory then it doesn't need to rely on a good suspension system
to maintain skip-free music. It will slowly get worse and worse until
the memory just can't keep up and your music will click and skip like
crazy. I have been recommended Clarion stackers by someone who used to
service car radios (and now is a Jaycar manager) because of their build
quality and suspension system / testing methods.
As far as speakers go - audition and plan the sound system out first. I
suggest going for the largest speakers that you can find in the front.
That way most of your music will be staged in front of you rather than
behind you, giving a much more realistic and listenable reproduction.
(which way do you face at a concert? where do you put your speakers at
home?). Rear speakers are good because you often have plenty more room
for large enclosures, or larger driviers. That way you can get the
missing bass frequencies that you might not be able to get out of the
front due to space limitations. If you do it well it will still sound
as though the sound is coming from in front of you.
Treble from the rear often confuses the sound stage, although it can be
good for dance music where you want the music to sound as though it
completely surrounds you. To each his own, though..
It's important to also try and get an equal path distance from each of
the front speakers to your ears. That way the stereo "illusion" will be
better, and it wont sound as though you have noise coming directly from
your doors - but rather from in front of you. Methods to do this
involve mounting speakers in the kickpanels rather than the doors, or by
pointing tweeters across the windshield, rather than directly at the
closest listener.
The addition of a subwoofer will also dramatically change the sound of
the music you play. It is difficult to get decent bass (bass present in
all music - not just 4/4 bass-drum beats) from doors, which is why
car subwoofers are designed differently to home ones (where there is m
Public Msg #1215047 *Cars* 22:08 13-JAN-00 *EXEMPT*
From: Slashr (Awarded 2000 Credits)
To: Mikez
Subj: Car Audio
more room for larger enclosures in your main speakers. It is also
possible to design a sub enclosure so that you lose very little boot
space. However you'll also need another amplifier for the sub, so it
might be worthwhile getting the rest of your sound system set up first.
Another option is to design good enclosures for your standard rear
speakers - to have them go as low as possible. Mostly people just have
them hanging loose on the rear parcel shelf, however if you design a
proper enclosure for them you will be able to get a lot more from your
speakers.
I'm presuming that you will want to install all of this yourself. I
recommend you do - or that you go to a very qualified and experienced
installer. Quite often cheap installers will completely fuck up your
job because mostly their customers don't notice. Ensure that you get
some advice on things like the power wiring for the amplifier. They
draw a lot of current, and if it's not done optimally then your
amplifier just wont perform and you will get distorted sound - making
the whole thing a wasted effort.
That pretty much covers the basics - sorry about the double message and
my verbosity. Hopefully I have been informative. :)
If you need any advice at all, or need to buy parts or whatever, then
drop into Parramatta Jaycar and speak to me. We have all the Re/Sponse
range of speakers on display for you to listen to (bring a CD with you
whenever you go to audition speakers etc), and have all the wiring,
connectors, and so on for car audio installations.
Oh, we also sell amplifiers and things like that too - but not head
units or stackers.
./r
Public Msg #1224716 *Cars* 22:25 30-MAR-00 *EXEMPT*
From: Mikez (Awarded 3500 Credits)
To: ** ALL **
Subj: I FOUND IT!
I found it! The best message ever left in /Cars! I had no idea I had
it until I was searching my harddrive for something tonight. Enjoy it
:)
Public Msg #917980 *Cars* 18:51 29-APR-97
From: Gangstar
To: Critter
Subj: 4 sale.
Reply to #917520, Reply to #916040,*
YOU ARE THE BIGGEST FUCKEN MORON ON THIS EARTH! I dont know what im
talking about dikface?! wats a locker fuknut?! a welded standard
Diff..NOW <fukn Kindy Lesson> DOES A BACKYARD LOCKER ALLOW ANY SLIP
AROUND CORNERS?! Can u drive your shitbox in the fuckn wet cumface?
Ofcourse it gives better traction off take off, but is it worth the
risk? i seen cars get tottaled because the dopey fucks had a 'locker'
YEa id put it in a light car STRICTLY to race down the Quarter, and pull
it out again..Think About it PUNK.